Mark Allen

Hometown: Everett, WA
Current Transportation: 2001 Ford Ranger with a dirtbag suite for two
Core Activities: Alpine climbing, ski-mountaineering, rock climbing, ice climbing
Non-Core Activities: Guiding, working on the board of directors at American Certified Guides Cooperative, crab fishing with family, avy education
Sponsors: Outdoor Research, La Sportiva, Mountain Safety Research, Bird Wear, AMGA, IFMGA
Favorite Places: Alaska, Bugaboos, Washington Pass, Chamonix, Italian Limestone
My Jam Is: Folks say I don't like music, I just like loud guitars.
I Eat Lots Of: Meals in European huts while guiding
Fun Fact: I'm not weird, I'm just nice.

​Mark is native to Washington. He was raised by wolves in the North Cascades where he was introduced to alpine climbing and deep powder skiing. After closing his geophysics textbook for the last time, he joined the league of homeless, car-dwelling, nomadic, mountain guides and began lapping countless classics with clients in the Cascades and the High Sierra.

 

After a decade hopping crag to glacier, Mark received his IFMGA/AMGA guiding certification and now is the director of his own boutique guide service, Expeditions Northwest LLC, a booking network for climbing trips worldwide. Mark practices a dual-kingdom model, calling both Silverton, Colo., and Mazama, Wash., home.

Video: When Rescue Isn’t An Option

A storm keeps Mark and Sheldon's plane from picking them up. Hunger, bears and avalanches are imminent. What now? [Read More]

The Guide’s Guide To Layering For Ski Touring, Part 3 of 3: Putting It All Together

Guide Mark Allen shows how to put layers together to stay warm in the backcountry. [Read More]

The Guide’s Guide To Layering For Ski Touring, Part 2 of 3: Intro To Outdoor Textiles

Guide Mark Allen shares pro layering tips for backcountry skiers. [Read More]

The Guide’s Guide To Layering For Ski Touring, Part 1 of 3

Guide Mark Allen's pro layering tips for backcountry skiers [Read More]

Into The Khumbu: Ama Dablam

21,000ft and moving too fast. It has been three years since I have been exposed to the altitude of the Himalaya and the feelings are all coming back to me. Getting to easier climbing terrain for the… [Read More]

Ski Tribes of the San Juans

Ski cultures are territorial, especially the old ones. The locals band up like gorillas claiming large swaths of alpine territory. The troops get protective when others invade. Guarding the stash can… [Read More]

Getting Pinned: An IFMGA Aspirant in Chamonix

Every time I drive into the North Cascades National Park I read a park sign that says “The North Cascades-The Alps of America.” This has always struck a spiteful chord in my dark side and I have… [Read More]

Alpine & Ice Climbing Ambassadors
Bayard Russell
Blake Herrington
Chad Kellogg (1971-2014)
Emilie Drinkwater
Gordon McArthur
Graham Zimmerman
Jason Nelson
Jewell Lund
Kyle Dempster
Margo Talbot
Mark Allen
Sarah Garlick
Sarah Hueniken
Warren Macdonald