Access Fund - The Secret is Out: Jailhouse Open Access

By Beth Rodden, 05 April 2013

  • DATE

    05 April 2013


    Beth Rodden

For 20 years, Jailhouse Rock outside of Sonora, CA was an open secret. The cliff line held some of California’s hardest routes. Climbers like Beth Rodden and Alex Honnold cut their teeth there, but access was sensitive. The approach trail ran through private property. While the landowner was supportive of climbing, he also asked that Jailhouse remain a relative secret. No guidebooks. No Internet spray. In 2011, the Access Fund and local climbers negotiated an easement with the landowner that opened a whole new era in Jailhouse climbing.

Beth Rodden

Berkeley, CA

Beth Rodden started climbing at the age of 14 when her dad took her to the local climbing gym. She immediately became entranced in the vertical world, traveling the country and the world for climbing competitions.As her love of plastic climbing faded and her love of the mountains grew, she started living on the road, traveling from climbing area to climbing area. With a few years of dedicated sport climbing under her belt, she became interested in bigger walls and trad climbing. For the past decade, she’s been obsessed with climbing in Yosemite. Whether it’s free climbing El Cap, single pitches or wrestling boulders, she’s become a permanent fixture on the Sierra granite.