Chad Kellogg: Training For The Race To The Top Of The World

Outdoor Research climber Chad Kellogg is gunning for a speed attempt on Mount Everest at the end of May 2013. We’ll be posting updates on our blog as Chad prepares to go from 17,600 feet to the 29,035-foot summit in less than 22 hours.

How does a climber train for a speed attempt on Everest? It’s almost 12,000 feet of elevation gain in less than 22 hours — and all of that elevation gain is at high altitude, starting the climb in already thin air at 17,600 feet at Base Camp.

Chad climbs around the world throughout the year leading up to the Everest season, spending the winter in Patagonia, and then returns to Seattle where he works full-time as a carpenter to earn money for his expedition. Once he arrives in Nepal, he has six weeks to get ready, trekking 350 miles and doing intervals at altitude up to Base Camp. Once at Base Camp, he carries loads to higher camps and acclimatizes.

When he’s home in Seattle, working full-time like the rest of us, Chad spends a minimum of 24 hours per week. A typical week of training for Chad looks like this:

  • Sunday: Long mountain run (18-35 miles) 4-6.5 hours, meditation

  • Monday: 1.5 hours circuit training with weights and core training, meditation

  • Tuesday: 1-1.5 hours of stair intervals: 4000-6000 stairs in 10-15 sets, meditation

  • Wednesday: 2 hours trail running, meditation class

  • Thursday: 1.5 hours trail running, 1.5 hours circuit training with weights and core training, meditation

  • Friday: 1-1.5 hours of stair intervals: 4000-6000 stairs in 10-15 sets, meditation

  • Saturday: Rest

     

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[Everest South Col map courtesy of www.alanarnette.com © reproduction prohibited without authorization]