Route of the Week: JR Token Extended

By Blake Herrington, 28 October 2013

  • DATE

    28 October 2013


    Blake Herrington


    Rock Climbing

JR Token is one of the best thin-hands cracks you’ll find anywhere. It begins off a pillar, and offers secure straight-in jamming until narrowing to a short section of red and green camalots. (Think thin and hard for the big-mitted boys, often cruiser for the ladies.) But the real cherry atop this sundae stroll is found by ignoring the anchor, placing a high piece of gear, and embarking on a hidden traverse left. This will lead onto a face featured with pockets, jugs, and a finger crack. The top of the routes at Trout often feature these kinds of holds, which do not appear on the bottom 80 percent of the columnar climbs. Bring a few slings and smaller cams for the extension climbing, which is no harder than mid 5.10, and might feel downright easy as you can finally relax those hand-jam muscles. This route is one of the longest pitches at Trout Creek, so take great care lowering off with a 60-meter rope, as it requires a bit of scrambling and careful belay work. Better yet, just use a 70-meter so you can luxuriate on a perfectly-angled chaise lounge belay column, watching and cheering on friends who snag a TR lap.

For more beta, check out’s page for JR Token [LINK].

Go-To Gear For Climbing At Trout Creek:

Men’s Vagabond Pants [LINK]

Women’s Vagabond Pants [LINK]

Men’s Echo Tee [LINK]

Women’s Echo Hoody [LINK]

Men’s Transcendent Hoody [LINK]

Women’s Acetylene Jacket [LINK]

Blake Herrington

Leavenworth, WA

Blake Herrington learned to climb as a teenager while working for a small bakery in North Cascades National Park. His first trips into the mountains instilled in him a familiarity with untraveled alpine choss and a love for remote peaks. Now in his mid-20s, Blake has lived in Denver and Bellingham, before recently settling into the mountain town of Leavenworth, Wash. He has established over two-dozen new alpine routes or first free ascents from Alaska, to Colorado to Argentina.

Blake is also a widely-published author, having contributed articles to Alpinist, Climbing and Rock & Ice. He has climbed sport and traditional pitches up to 5.13a, but considers diverse alpine routes the most engaging and inspiring sub-set of climbing. Despite savoring the alpine cooking of many climbing partners, he counts himself among the best camp chefs he’s had the opportunity to climb with.