MountainProject.com Route of the Week: JR Token Extended
JR Token is one of the best thin-hands cracks you’ll find anywhere. It begins off a pillar, and offers secure straight-in jamming until narrowing to a short section of red and green camalots. (Think thin and hard for the big-mitted boys, often cruiser for the ladies.) But the real cherry atop this sundae stroll is found by ignoring the anchor, placing a high piece of gear, and embarking on a hidden traverse left. This will lead onto a face featured with pockets, jugs, and a finger crack. The top of the routes at Trout often feature these kinds of holds, which do not appear on the bottom 80 percent of the columnar climbs. Bring a few slings and smaller cams for the extension climbing, which is no harder than mid 5.10, and might feel downright easy as you can finally relax those hand-jam muscles. This route is one of the longest pitches at Trout Creek, so take great care lowering off with a 60-meter rope, as it requires a bit of scrambling and careful belay work. Better yet, just use a 70-meter so you can luxuriate on a perfectly-angled chaise lounge belay column, watching and cheering on friends who snag a TR lap.
Go-To Gear For Climbing At Trout Creek: