MountainProject.com Route of the Week: The May Fly
This was long considered Trout’s hardest tick, and it is certainly among the very best. It was established by local crusher Cody Scarpella and Tommy Caldwell did the second ascent shortly after, suggesting that it might even be a touch more difficult. The first 50 feet would be a 5.12 finger crack on its own, beginning with ring locks and big-fingers pods, which gradually taper to a tips lock on poor feet. Futzing in some gear off a pinky lock comprises the “rest” before things get hard. From here, the crack you have been climbing completely ends, but another crack one column to the left suddenly opens up. With the help of a few unexpected face holds, make a bouldery and committing switch leftward into the second crack, and place a few Rps or small cams as you tackle the final overhanging moves to the chains. You may fly, but even long flights are generally safe on a wall this steep and clean.
Go-To Gear For Climbing At Trout Creek: