MountainProject.com Route of the Week: U3
U3 might be the area’s best intro to Trout Creek’s steep columns and unusual style of routes. The climb can be stemmed, chimneyed, or straight-in jammed, and easiest ascent of the route will probably involve all three of those techniques. It’s a great route for learning just how much to trust the friction between columns, and dialing in the feel of a perfect hand jam or finger lock as you chimney up with your feet and back holding you in place. Since there are always two cracks at your disposal, U3 does not require having a huge number of the same-sized cam, but if you continuously alternate gear placements between the two splitters, it does require a half-dozen slings, something that would go unused on most lines up the wall. If you find yourself cruising this vertical 5.9, your options for quality harder routes are numerous in either direction. If U3 gives you a run for your money, the far left (north) end of the wall is comprised of lower-angle slab columns, where a few 5.8 routes let you work on crack skills while letting you stay on your feet.
Go-To Gear For Climbing At Trout Creek: