Free shipping on orders over $99 Route of the Week: The May Fly

Author: Blake Herrington

October 15, 2013

This was long considered Trout’s hardest tick, and it is certainly among the very best. It was established by local crusher Cody Scarpella and Tommy Caldwell did the second ascent shortly after, suggesting that it might even be a touch more difficult. The first 50 feet would be a 5.12 finger crack on its own, beginning with ring locks and big-fingers pods, which gradually taper to a tips lock on poor feet. Futzing in some gear off a pinky lock comprises the “rest” before things get hard. From here, the crack you have been climbing completely ends, but another crack one column to the left suddenly opens up. With the help of a few unexpected face holds, make a bouldery and committing switch leftward into the second crack, and place a few Rps or small cams as you tackle the final overhanging moves to the chains. You may fly, but even long flights are generally safe on a wall this steep and clean. 

For more beta, check out’s page on The May Fly [LINK].

Go-To Gear For Climbing At Trout Creek:

Men’s Vagabond Pants [LINK]

Women’s Vagabond Pants [LINK]

Men’s Echo Tee [LINK]

Women’s Echo Hoody [LINK]

Men’s Transcendent Hoody [LINK]

Women’s Acetylene Jacket [LINK]

Blake Herrington

Blake Herrington learned to climb as a teenager while working for a small bakery in North Cascades National Park. His first trips into the mountains instilled in him a familiarity with untraveled alpine choss and a love for remote peaks. Now in his mid-20s, Blake has lived in Denver and Bellingham, before recently settling into the mountain town of Leavenworth, Wash. He has established over two-dozen new alpine routes or first free ascents from Alaska, to Colorado to Argentina. Blake is also a widely-published author, having contributed articles to Alpinist, Climbing and Rock & Ice. He has climbed sport and traditional pitches up to 5.13d, but considers diverse alpine routes the most engaging and inspiring sub-set of climbing. Despite savoring the alpine cooking of many climbing partners, he counts himself among the best camp chefs he’s had the opportunity to climb with.