Thereโ€™s a photo of Quinn Mason when she was 9 years old, placing fourth at Youth Nationals, qualifying for the national team. It marks the moment she realized how much she really did care about competition and winning in climbing. Today that photo also symbolizes something else sheโ€™s grateful forโ€”and proud of: โ€œOut of all 10 finalists, I think Iโ€™m the only one still competing at a high level,โ€ she says, now halfway through high school.ย 

Sheโ€™s a five-time Youth National Climbing Team member and qualified for the 2020 world cups as an adult. But more than wins or sends, Quinn seems to be focused on the longevity aspect of her climbing life. โ€œIโ€™ve had ups and downs, and to have stuck with it to be where I am nowโ€”that is my proudest accomplishment.โ€

We caught up with Quinnโ€”one of the newest members of the Outdoor Research climbing teamโ€”a couple of months into the pandemic, and one of the first things she mentioned is how she had taken some time off at the time. With world cups canceled (she had qualified for the first time), she was taking it easy for a little while, sewing masks for family and friends, dabbling in cooking and painting, and encouraging others to relax a bit, too, through her social media channels.ย 

โ€œI want to let people know, you donโ€™t have to train right now,โ€ she says. โ€œItโ€™s great if you canโ€”but itโ€™s a good time for everyone to take a break. I gave myself a little reset, and Iโ€™ve been feeling pretty motivated now that Iโ€™ve had some time off.โ€

Quinn admits sheโ€™s never been very good at resting. But if sheโ€™s going to enjoy a sustainable climbing career and not get injured or burn out, rest is an important aspect.ย 

โ€œItโ€™s easy to want to ignore it, but you know deep down that in the long run, itโ€™s going to be about taking care of your body,โ€ she says. โ€œIf you donโ€™t do that, there wonโ€™t be a next season.โ€

SHOP THE LIMITED EDITION QUINN BUCKET HAT

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Quinn Mason wears her namesake bucket hat from Outdoor Research.Quinn Mason wears her namesake bucket hat from Outdoor Research.

Aiming For Sustainability

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Quinn grew up in Seattle, climbing outdoors with her family, and sees climbing as part of the big picture in her lifeโ€”with or without competition. For her itโ€™s a lifestyle and community that goes beyond personal performance.ย 

โ€œYou can meet climbers from across the world and have something in common,โ€ she says. โ€œThat bond that everyone shares is definitely something unique to the sport. Itโ€™s because itโ€™s all about pushing your own limits, and that allows you to feel for other peopleโ€”when theyโ€™re pouring everything into it, you can relate to them. You can feel the same kind of joy when they succeed.โ€

Sheโ€™s aware of the burnout rate of young competition climbers, and keeps her perspective more broad. โ€œIf I'm not super motivated to train, I still have motivation to climb hard,โ€ she says. โ€œAnd even if I donโ€™t feel like climbing hard, I still have a reason to go to the gym, to see my friends.โ€

To Calm The Nerves

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As Quinn became increasingly competitiveโ€”and successfulโ€”as a climber, nerves began to have an impact. It took her a while, but in the past couple of years sheโ€™s learned a few coping exercises that could be helpful for other climbers and non-climbers alike.

โ€œI definitely have developed a strategy,โ€ she says. From coaches she began to learn the power of her own breath. โ€œIt seems so simple, how taking deep breaths can actually calm you down. Or how you can use your breathing to psych yourself up.โ€

She also listens to music in the isolation zone during comps, and uses aromatherapy, rolling lavender essential oil on her wrist so that whenever her arms move past her face she gets a calming whiff. โ€œI find it really works for me,โ€ she says. โ€œI can smell my wrist and take a few deep breaths.โ€

Quinn Mason climbs a steep outdoor rock face.Quinn Mason climbs a steep outdoor rock face.
Quinn Mason makes a dynamic move on an overhanging boulder in the gym.Quinn Mason makes a dynamic move on an overhanging boulder in the gym.

Pure Power V. Performance

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Another strategy Quinn leans on is focusing on performance over sheer strength. โ€œIn terms of training, a lot of climbers are focused on just pure power and pure finger strength,โ€ she says. โ€œIf they come away from competition or a project outside and they canโ€™t do it, the instinct is to just get stronger. Which I do stand behind. But more of my training is behind performance.โ€

What does that actually look like? โ€œBeing able to execute the same grade over and over and over again, no matter what the boulder is, or the sport climb,โ€ she says. For example, sheโ€™ll give herself a limit for working on a specific boulder. โ€œInstead of just trying it until completion, itโ€™s walking in and saying, โ€˜Iโ€™m going to try each boulder no more than three times.โ€™ Even if itโ€™s a boulder you could complete in 10 tries, only give yourself a certain number of tries, so you have to do it in that number of tries or you just move on to something new. So you get a lot better at performing.โ€

Confidence That Carries Over

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Over the years, Quinn has seen her lessons, practices and experiences from climbing bleed over into other parts of her life. โ€œI think if you asked anyone from where I went to school previously, they would probably say Iโ€™m shy or introverted,โ€ she says, but within the climbing community sheโ€™s definitely extroverted.ย 

โ€œWhenever I step into a climbing gym, I have a different wave of confidence,โ€ she says. โ€œAs Iโ€™ve grown up and found myself more, it has come through in other places.โ€

For example, she spoke at the Access Fund annual summit last fall. โ€œI think the fact that it was me speaking about climbing made a pretty big difference,โ€ she says. โ€œIt was definitely nerve-wracking But my parents said they never would have imagined I would have done that just a few years ago.โ€ย ย 

Full Circle: Coaching

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A little over two years ago, Quinn began coaching, working with younger climbers on her team. While sheโ€™s progressing in her own climbing career, coaching is something that grounds her in the very basic things she loves about the sport. The younger climbersโ€™ pure joy and excitement to compete reminds her to slow down and enjoy climbing herself.

โ€œCoaching has helped me remember to enjoy the moment and remember why I even like competing to begin with,โ€ she says. โ€œIt definitely changed my own ability to compete.โ€

And for the moment, with all climbing events cancelled, slowing down and enjoying climbing seems like a very wise strategy indeed.

Quinn Masin clips a bolt on an overhanging outdoor sport route.Quinn Masin clips a bolt on an overhanging outdoor sport route.

Get To Know Quinn

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Favorite book: โ€œWith Winning In Mindโ€ by Lanny Bassham. โ€œThere are probably five copies going around on my team.โ€

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Favorite movie: โ€œMy family and I just watched the whole Marvel series. I had watched a number of them, but was not very invested. After watching 21 of them, Iโ€™m more invested.โ€

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Favorite crag snack: Cosmic Crisps. โ€œItโ€™s a type of apple, and theyโ€™re my new go-to. Theyโ€™re a combination of Honeycrisp and Enterpriseโ€”the first Washington red apple. I never knew I was particular about apples until I had one. Theyโ€™re kind of sweet and tangy at the same time, and very dense.โ€

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Photos by Don Mason.

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