If you didnโt know where Jessa Goebel is from when you meet her, you might find yourself wondering within a few minutes. Her accent might catch your earโbut itโs subtle, more like a semi-accent.ย Most certainly, sheโll be talking about climbing. And you might find yourself trying to guess: Not quite a Georgia or Alabama drawl. Definitely not Texan. But before you know it, youโll figure it outโnot because she loves talking about herselfโsheโs way too modest. But because she loves climbing. Specifically, climbing at the New River Gorge outside Fayetteville, West Virginia. In fact, she started climbing there before most of us were even working summer jobs or applying for collegeโand now she lives within walking distance of the gorge. So we chatted her up to get the best beta about one of the Eastโs biggest, baddest climbing areas. How would you describe the climbing personality of the New River Gorge to someone whoโs never been there before? โThe climbing here is pretty hard, and pretty prejudiced. It helps to be tall and have a lot of hand strength. You have to be able to take your licks and be OK with getting shut down by 5.11s. It draws people whoe are a little more laid back and who are out for routes, not numbers. You donโt get many people talking about grades. Everybodyโs super chill; climbing in the summer, youโll throw a couple of beers in your pack. Itโs a big contrast between people who climb at the Red.โ What kind of assumptions do you think people bring to the New? โThis place has a mystique about it. You have to be patient and have your head on right. You definitely see people who expect certain things, and you donโt see them back very often.โ Why would you recommend a trip to the New River Gorge? โThere are lots of really good moderate trad routes and moderate sport routes. So itโs really awesome for people learning to place gear. It really teaches you how to think on your feetโthere are lots of horizontal placements and pockets. So itโs a really fun learning situation on moderate or hard terrain. The rock here is so good. And the sport routes are really beautiful, aesthetic lines. With the steep sandstone walls overlooking the river, everything is unique.โ What are three routes you think everybody should try when they come? โTwo Bag Face is a 5.9 trad route with a really cool techy, facey arรชte that overlooks the gorge and the bridge. And then New Yosemite is a really nice little 5.8 crack climb. For a sport climb, Legacy is a great 5.11a on Endless Wall. Itโs big and technical, and requires crack climbing skills. Legacy is one of the longer pitches in the gorge, and itโs on you the whole way up.โ Where should visitors stay? And where will they find the best grub and beer? โThe American Alpine Club just opened a campground. So you can hang out there and walk over to the Junkyard Wall and climb without even having to drive anywhere. Secret Sandwich Society is right next to my houseโand their soups are always awesome, and they have good beer and good desserts. Pies and Pints in town has great pizzas, salads and beer.โ Whatโs your go-to OR gear for climbing in the New? โThe Voodoo Pants are perfect because theyโre super light, so you can wear them in summer or winter here. And youโll definitely want an Ubertube for when itโs sweaty in the summer. Then Iโd go with the Flyway Tank and Ferrosi Hoody in the spring. And the Cathode Jacket is pretty nice to have, too.โ
